For now, the impossibly
luminous,
turquoise waters of the River Baker rush freely through
rugged canyons in the far south of Chile. But this wilderness will not remain untouched for much longer if plans go ahead for a $4bn hydroelectric project, flooding about 90 square kilometres.
Environmentalists
are up in arms. Although Chile faces serious challenges in meeting the increasing energy demands of its fast-growing economy, they say large dams are not the answer, and will ruin the area's tourism potential.
"The flooding of Patagonia
is at stake. Our landscapes will be
irreversibly changed," says Sara Larraín, head of Sustainable Chile and a former presidential candidate, who also objects to a 2,000km transmission line, whose
pylons will carve through the country to Santiago, where the energy will be consumed.
The four dams planned by the joint venture between Endesa Chile, a
subsidiary of Spain's Endesa, and Chile's Colbún would add 2,400MW to Chile's current capacity of about 12,000MW, which experts say needs to double over the next decade to
sustain growth levels.
But Ms Larraín fears the construction of these dams will leave the door open for further projects in the Aysén region, which, with one of the largest reserves of fresh water in the world, is reckoned to have hydroelectric capacity of more than 8,000MW. Already Falconbridge is planning to install a
hydroelectric plant nearby.
Karen Poniachik, energy minister, argues that Chile cannot afford the luxury of not using its own energy resources. Asked in an interview with the Financial Times about the impact of the Aysén project on the environment and the local community, Ms Poniachik countered: "What about the environmental, social and political costs of Chile not having energy?"
Chile has had a problem since Argentina's energy
shortages forced it in 2004 to start cutting natural gas exports to its neighbour, which relies on Argentine gas for a third of its electricity generation. Consequently, Chile believes it must diversify sources and increase autonomy to ensure security in supply and price.
Ms Poniachik points out that hydroelectricity - which today accounts for 40 per cent of Chile's electricity generation - is cheap, clean and
reliable, especially in the Aysén region, which has Chile's highest levels of rainfall.
The main alternatives - coal and
liquefied natural gas - are
dearer and dirtier. Chile has significant geothermal energy resources, which could generate at least 4,000MW, although they are expensive to develop.
It is clear too that, although neighbouring countries may have considerable natural gas reserves, they cannot be relied on. Argentina is struggling to supply its own market, while an agreement remains to be reached with Bolivia, which refuses to deal with Chile because of a century-old
border dispute.
This increases the pressure for Patagonia's water to be exploited. Endesa Chile's chief executive, Rafael Mateo, is confident the project will go ahead if all parties concerned want it to, although its
environmental impact is still being analysed and construction would not begin until 2008.
"It is a project of interest for the whole national electricity system, using Chilean resources that are
renewable and economical, helping to maintain current electricity prices," he says.
But local opinion is divided and many fear the social consequences of development, while harbouring deep suspicion of private sector interests.
"How can we protect our natural beauty and not leave it in the hands of those who want to exploit it in a way which will only benefit big business?" asks a local priest, Father Bernardino Sanello, in Cochrane, an isolated town of 2,800 people near the sites of two of the four dams.
"For me, Endesa is like Satan," says Marcos Díaz, who founded the Defenders of the Spirit of Patagonia to put a stop to the hydroelectric project. "This is a struggle between good and evil."